Hopefully I'll have time and space to be a bit more reflective later... Today we visited a leper community which I'll have a lot to say about when I have time to write, but here is what we did yesterday: (Wednesday. Now it's Thursday and 10pm and I haven't written yet)
Today was our first full day out doing visits and meeting
people. Our Tanzania itinerary is hosted by Bishop Maimbo and the Anglican
Diocese of Tanga, one of 22 dioceses in Tanzania, which has 67 parishes. Today
we started with a meeting with some diocesan folks, then moved on to the
Cathedral to meet the Council and some tree planting, then on to lunch in
another building. The Cathedral and diocesan grounds are huge, with health
center and many homes of all sizes and building materials (think: straw and mud
up to cinderblock), including the bishop’s and several clergy and a small
community of nuns.
First, we met with Christopher, the Vicar General, Peter the
secretary of the Diocese (both priests), and a constellation of other diocesan
folks. We talked with Angelina, the information officer, and she ended up
spending the whole day with us. The diocese has BIG plans for the next 13
years, which we’ll hear more about later—the Plan for 2025. John, the
coordinator for parish and institutional partnerships, talked a lot about
changes being made to leadership structures and accountability in diocesan
institutions (dispensaries, hosptials, schools, etc), “so the bishop isn’t in
the middle of everything.” The last bishop, who was ousted after a lot of fraud
came to light, “wanted to be both a referee and a player...” Well said, John. Thus independent boards.
In all this expansion—starting a junior theological school
(sort of like a pre-seminary for 17-19 year olds) as well as opening a nursing
school, the aim is for things to become more self-sufficient and grounded in
“both mind and heart.” One challenge the
diocese faces is geography—it’s very mountainous, and it’s hard for people to
travel. But about 80% of households have a radio, so why not start a radio
station? Someone in our group asked, “Why not TV?” and he responded that only
about 30% could be reached that way. I did, however, take a picture this
afternoon of a cow standing behind a house’s large satellite dish, so you never
know how long it will take for that to change.
I asked about what interfaith ventures the diocese was
engaged in, and was told that with so much work they were doing in the world,
they were able to serve all people in their schools, hospitals, etc. We did see a few girls wearing veils as we
walked by the Cathedral school, and Tanzania is about 35% Muslim.
After our meeting with the diocese, we walked down the hill
past several houses and the school. We looked around the Cathedral and sat to
listen to introductions from the leaders there, and then went outside for some
tree planting to celebrate the relationships being formed “and to allow
friendship to grow.” Given that the
rainy season has seriously let down the people of Tanzania, I’m more optimistic
about the friendship than the trees. But it was delightful. When they clap the older ladies kind of make
this “AY AY AY AY AY” guttural sound that is fantastic.
After the tree planting some of the school kids showed up
and the candy and bubbles came out, which was super fun. There were also a few toddlers around who
didn’t know what the bubbles were, and they were very impressed. I have a
little video of it I can post when I have better internet.
Then we went to lunch—rice, fish, goat, chicken, rice,
plantains, pineapple, ugalu (a corn-based kind of solidified porridge),
vegetables—so much food! We said our
goodbyes, and we drove further up the mountain to St Alban’s parish. Let me
point out that today I got to ride in the nice van, with individual seats,
unlike spending four hours sandwiched in the back of a smaller jeep with Tom
Shaw and his sister Penny as I did yesterday…
At St Alban’s we had the most amazing welcome—the car
couldn’t make it over a ditch in the road that lead up to the church, so as we
walked up the women of the parish (and a few men) walked out toward us singing
and brought us into the church. We then each introduced ourselves and heard
from Richard, the priest, and sang together. Then we each were called up and
received a traditional cloth wrap—some of the women had their heads and bodies
wrapped, while it was put on me like a skirt. The men got them over their
shoulders and around their bodies, and Bp Tom’s outfit was completed with a
straw hat…pictures to follow. There is a great one of Tom Mousin (the rector of
St John’s in Charlestown) and me posed together looking quite regal. At least
he does, because he’s about 18 inches taller than I am.
At St Alban’s more candy and bubbles—yay—and Heidi Marcotte,
the youth director from the parish in Duxbury had soccer balls signed by kids
at her parish. St Alban’s has a Sunday School building and a playground funded
by All Saints Brookline, complete with a ping pong table that reads, “God love
children.”
I am feeling less lame about the worthlessness
of candy and bubbles. More theology later.
THEN back to the hotel, quick rest, back out for dinner
hosted by St Andrew’s parish with some of the other clergy from the deanery.
More of the same plentiful food— we in the Northeast really do know what a
pineapple is supposed to taste like.
Unfortunately okra is kind of yucky even in Tanzania, as I’ve also found
it to be gross in Indian as well as Southern cooking. Nowhere is perfect.
Back to the White Parrot for drinks and bedtime…tomorrow
will be even longer, so I am going to bed!
ps: insane inequality moment of the day: opening my copy of
Sunday’s Boston Globe Magazine. It’s hard to read about someone’s “traditional
English club” style bathroom renovation. Because the school we visited
literally had a hole dug in the ground with a shed built around it.
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